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   Hallo Allemaal,

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110 yards

There are 3 parts to the scarf: the tail (where we start), the body, and the head.

The directions are for a smaller child, but can easily be adapted for an older child or adult. Simply increase to more stitches in the tail section, and make the body section longer.

When I say "knit a purl row," or "knit 2 purl rows," remember that you're already knitting the odd-numbered rows. This never changes. So these directions mean that you're going to knit instead of purl on one or two even-numbered rows. This puts the purl bumps on the "wrong" side, giving the snake body some texture

Skills needed 

Cast on 

Knit stitch 

Purl Stitch 

Inc (increase by knitting into front and back of stitch) 

Knit 2 tog decrease 

SSK decrease (slip two stitches to right needle - 

one at a time - and then insert left needle in front and knit) Note: There are two decreases - SSK and Knit2tog - to shape the snake's head correctly. The SSK slants toward the left, so it is used on the right side of the "head" and the knit2tog slants toward the right, so it is used on the left side. 

Bind off 

Tail 

Note: if you want a "ribbed" tail (think rattlesnake), knit every other purl row in the tail, beginning with R4 (knit R4, R8, etc.; purl R6, R10, etc.))

Cast on 3 stitches, leaving a 6-8" tail 

R1 (and all odd-numbered rows): knit 

R2: purl 

R3: knit, increasing in the first stitch and the last stitch by knitting into the front and the back (= 5 stitches) 

R4: purl 

R5: knit, increasing in the first stitch and the last stitch (= 7 stitches) 

R6: purl 

R7: knit, increasing in the first stitch and the last stitch (= 9 stitches) 

R8: purl

Continue alternating a knitted increase row and a purl row until you have 16 stitches (or the desired number)

Body 

Continue working in st st until you are about 5" from the desired length, occasionally knitting a purl row or two to throw in some texture. You can decide on a precise pattern, but just randomly knitting a row every few inches instead of purling also looks nice. 

I actually did kind of a pattern, where I knit 2 reg. purl rows, then purled, then knit 2 reg. purl rows - this made 2 thick stripes -- this row pattern would be (starting with a regularly knit row): K* K K K K P K K K K, cont in st st for a couple of inches, return to *. 

Head 

Now comes the fun part! When you have about 2" to go, it's time to start shaping the head. If you've ever knit a mitten on 2 needles, the concept is similar. 

Continue st st until you are ready to decrease (about 2" to go). This will give your snake a garter stitch "snout" area, and flatten out the head. Directions are written for 15 stitch-wide scarf. If you used more or less stitches, the odd-numbered row directions would read "K1, SSK, Knit until 3 stitches remain, K2tog, K1"

Knitting all rows � 

r1: K1 SSK, K9, K2tog, K1 (14 st) 

r2: knit 

r3: K1, SSK, K7, K2tog, K1 (12 st) 

r4: knit 

r5: K1, SSK, K5, K2tog, K1 (10 st) 

r6: knit 

r7: K1, SSK, K3, K2tog, K1 (8 st) 

r8: knit 

r9: K1, SSK, K1, K2tog, K1 (6 st) 

r10: knit 

r11: K1, SSK, K2tog, K1 (4 st) 

r12: knit 

Bind off

Finishing

�     Finish tail: with RS facing each other, use the cast-on tail to sew the edges together for about two inches. 

Sew in rattle (optional) 

Weave in ends, trim excess 

Recommended: Dampen (or steam) scarf and block it to make the fibers "bloom" a bit. 

Sew on buttons, google eyes, etc. for eyes 

Cut and sew on a red felt tongue

Care Directions 

Because of the eyes and tongue, it is recommended that you wash the snake scarf by hand and lay flat to dry, regardless of fiber content.

110 yards